Combos are performed when players drive dangerously, such as doing so while in a traffic, opposite lane, or drifting. The game will reward risks while driving by filling up the boost meter, which can be used for super speed. Īt any time, the player can slide/drift the car that is controlled, which allows taking corners as quickly as possible. If that request is accepted, the car chase starts with a time limit where the goal is to hit the runaway car until durability reaches zero. At a certain point of time, the players will be informed of the location of a fugitive HUV that is near. Before some of these can be unlocked, it is necessary to meet level requirements. There are 9 different types of cars, sorted by their power and overall quality. As an arcade-style racer, the physics make game feel faster and less prone to hazards. Successfully completing a mission or a race gives a certain number of experience points and Mito. A large majority of missions involves reaching targets, occasionally with a time or crash limit, while following the arrow, similar to Crazy Taxi. The currency earned (named Mito) while playing can be spent on customizing owned cars, collecting new parts or buying some new rides. Good bye open unit, hello Cusco Type-RS limited slip diff.A screenshot of several players at Cras City in Drift City.ĭrift City is a cel-shaded racing video game which includes single-player (missions) and multi-player modes (team car racing, PVP) to play. Internally they look largely the same though, which meant a differential swap was in order. Like the NCP13 Vitz RS, the AE111 Levin/Trueno came with a C56 gearbox, albeit with a slightly different casing. I’ve had the car tucked away in the back of my garage for a long time, but while recently preparing it for sale I removed a few of its parts, one of them being perfect for use in my bB. It was a street-registered car but saw track time, hence a number of modifications. The ECU plugs straight into the bB’s factory wiring loom, but there’ll soon be an aftermarket harness sitting in between the two connections to accomodate a fully programmable engine management system.Īlthough I’ll need to wait until the engine is refitted before my Vitz gearbox goes into the bB, there was another job to tick off the list while it was out of the car.Īround 15 years ago I picked up an AE111 Toyota Levin straight from Okayama, Japan. Yahoo! Auctions Japan came to the rescue here, and running the kouki NCP13 Vitz RS manual transmission ECU will ensure the engine’s VVTi system works as it was intended to. Previously, the white-faced speedometer/tacho glowed a dull warm white colour, but to give it a fresher look I’ve gone with daylight-white LEDs which ran me just a couple of dollars.Īt this point I also removed the factory 2DIN head unit, and as that involved removal of the console fascia I upgraded the two bulbs that illuminate the A/C and blower fan controls at the same time.Īside from the clutch line, the only other thing I needed to check off for the conversion was the ECU. In order to bolt up the clutch pedal I needed to remove the instrument cluster so we could go in through the top of the dash, and while I had that out I took the opportunity to replace its original filament bulbs with LEDs. To see the job through properly we cut off the correct mount and Kevin welded it on the Vitz pedal assembly. Cutting the bB’s large rectangular brake pedal down would have been an easy solution, but being positioned a bit too far over to the left where the clutch was going to be, it wasn’t the best option. While the clutch pedal hung off the mount for the car’s original foot park brake, the Vitz’s brake pedal had a different mount. Of course, there had to be one aspect of the conversion that wasn’t completely straight forward, and that turned out to be the brake pedal.
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